Verona

The ancient and peaceful Basilica of San Zeno is one of the most stunning Romanesque churches in Italy. It was consecrated in the year 806 by the son of Charlemagne, destroyed during barbarian invasions and then rebuilt 150 years later. By the late 13th and 14th centuries it was again renovated and so on throughout the ages until it stands today as an ineffable triumph to man's hand. For 7 euros each we received passes to the four main churches of Verona and these passes are good for an entire year. Given the amount of exquisite art and history there and the peace and coolness within, it was an incredible price.

The exquisite courtyard and cloister, as seen through the branches of an olive tree. This is where the monks relaxed and washed at a central fountain, many centuries ago.

The frescoes were mesmerizing, as was the alter with a table supported by the sacrophagus of the bishops. The masterpiece of Italian Renaissance painting over the alter was done in the 1400s. I could not tear my eyes away from this beautiful art.

After an unhurried hour or so, we split a panini and had a glass of wine at the aptly named "Zen" cafe, in the piazza in the shade of the duomo. From there, a pleasant wander to the colosseum. Where for 10 euros each we climbed a bunch of ancient steps only to behold a 2023 stage setting and equipment ready for a head-banging concert this evening. The painful irony did not escape me. As adventures go, this one was a bust, only worthwhile for a picture taken from the top of the crumbling stairs to showcase beautiful Verona's Piazza Bra. It was a perfect day for a 16K wander, not too hot, and most of it was alongside the pretty Adige River, past castles, many cafes and bars filled with contented people taking in the moments as they sipped their capuccino. La dolce vita.