Friday, September 10, 2021

From Rembrandt to the Red Light District

 Life is all about balance, right?   Yin and Yang.   So it made sense that our wide-eyed wander around the Rijksmuseum was counterbalanced by a long canal walk that somehow ended mysteriously in the notorious red light district.  At midafternoon most of the sights, so to speak, were still buttoned up behind closed curtains.   However, the signage left little to the imagination and the sudden appearance of a buxom lady luxuriously pulling on her silk hosery in her window was interesting, if not fetching.  We enjoyed a drink at Nieuwmarkt and watched the parade of humanity flow by, with tired legs and bums entirely happily planted our cobblestone patio chairs.

Speaking of women and The Netherlands.  About 50 times a day a Nordic goddess pedals by me at top speed, elegantly dressed and perfectly coiffed, usually with one hand on the bike and the other furiously texting.  As if by magic, they effortlessly avoid traffic snarls, pedestrians and fellow bikers.  Ranging from the young to the seasoned, they are long-limbed, clear-eyed and dripping with the natural beauty that the rest of us spend hours trying, and failing, to achieve.  I have never felt more stumpy, boring or Canadian.

We have mastered the use of trams, specificially, #24 to De Pijp.  From Centraal to drop off is less than 10 minutes and these trams are the epitome of Dutch efficiency, precisely on time, clean and pleasant and unpopulated.  It obligingly drops us just a few blocks from Albert Cuypmarkt, a fabulous outdoor market overflowing with temptations including a fruit, vegetable and flower market, decadent goodies, vintage clothing stores and so much more.   It is the most pleasant way to end our daily adventures, to stroll through the market and fill our bags with Stroopwaffles and excellent rounds of Gouda.  Our apartment is just a few steps from Sarphatipark, a green oasis that is well favored by the locals.  Dogs are all off leash and are perfectly behaved and pleasant, as any proper Dutch doggy should be.  Easy to take a baguette and a bottle of wine and settle in beside the pretty ponds, watch the ducks and swans glide by and take the antics of happy families.  Sweet.   Ineffable.

We are working on plans to spend a day in Delft and another day in Leiden (Rembrandt’s birthplace), both of which I am looking forward to tremendously.   Dave has already warned me that to climb the tower in 13th Century Delft is not for quitters - literally - you cannot quit once you are invested in the journey.  I’m thankful for all those biking trips through Wildwood Forest and hope the stumpy Canadian legs are up to the challenge!





Thursday, September 9, 2021

Russian guards and hapless Chinese ducks

 Thursday.

Dave:  Let’s walk until we find a green sign.

Me:   😳 Okay.

…….12 KLM later

Dave:  Nevermind.  I feel like buying a duck.

Me:  ðŸ˜³ Okay.

Surfed the canals on a perfect late summer’s day and from there, an endless wander through the delights of Amsterdam’s winding streets.   One of which produced a sumptuous roasted duck for the fellow’s dinner.  Tucked away in a warm, greasy sack, the boys cackled in anticipation of the crackling. Until the moment we settled into our seats on Tram 24 bound for home and looked out the window to see…. THE DUCK ON THE BENCH.   Sad little bag on the bench.   Abandoned.  Crying greasy tears.  “J’ai oublie’ le canard!”

….. many tram buttons were panickly pushed, to no avail.   Dutch trams do not pause nor stop for ducks.  And so we slipped silently away as we tearfully looked back at the sad little bag on the bench.  

Two disquieting minutes slipped by, until the tram paused at the next stop.  Unannounced, Dave electrically bolted from his seat… “I’m going to get our duck!” He said, with determination…”See you later!”  And just like that pffssssst!   He was gone.

There was no time to gasp or to plan.  Our guide had just evaporated, gone duck huntin’.   The only logical idea was to get off at the normal spot and wait 8 long minutes for the #24 tram to reappear, which it did, with perfect punctuality.  And there he was, bag ‘o duck in hand, happy as a lark and reporting that when he returned to the bench that the bag was being guarded by two Russians from Georgia.  You cannot make this shit up.   That’s what he said and I have no reason to disbelieve him.

Stir fry tonight.  Guess what’s in it? 






Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Day one

 



Disclaimer:   Going into my 30th hour with no sleep, 10 km of wandering old Amsterdam in 28 degree heat, and a stomach full of kibbeling.   Look it up, I dare you.   It was delicious.  Also, be warned my Google blog format has obligingly translated everything into Dutch so a few things might look a little strange.  

Had a flawless flight thanks to KLM, one of the fastest and smoothest I’ve ever enjoyed.  After the usual cattle line up to get through customs (Covid?  What Covid?  Doesn’t seem to exist in this country, other than masks in the airport) we grabbed a cab and arrived without a problem at our cozy little apartment in de Piipe.     Our “stroll around the block” to get our bearings turned into a full assault on the city and some 5 hours later we returned cross-eyed but with updated transit cards, an important adaptor for the electronics, and a wondrous assortment of cheese and wine.  The race is on to see who can keep their eyes open the longest as we’re trying to switch to the local time zones in one day.  For this moment, it feels luxurious to sit still and compose this as the breeze teases through the open front door.  It’s so good to sit still.

The good weather is forecast to hold for tomorrow so there are plans cooking for a canal cruise, a nice  rest for the weary feet and jet-lagged brain, and probably a good exploration of the park just 300 meters away.  Both activities are much safer than running the gauntlet of a thousand uber fit bikers and silent but deadly trams.  Amsterdam - we have arrived!