Agerola

 This beautiful, tiny little hamlet is known as “Little Switzerland” as it is tucked high up into the mountains.   It is quiet, clean and friendly, and we are staying at a cozy family-run hotel in the village.  We are the only guests so far and yesterday we had a wonderful time meeting the owner, Magdalena and her husband, a talented chef.   Indeed, there will be a very special dinner this evening as we entertain some friends of Dave’s that he met last April.   Designed by Dave and the chef, it is going to be a three course feast that features the best of the regional riches.  We have already been treated to appetizers with our welcoming wine yesterday - local anchovies, creamy Gorgonzola, peasant bread with slices of parmesan, olives.   And they make their own red wine, which Dave pronounced as delicious.

Although our trip here went without a hitch, it was a long one and involved many changes.   Beginning in the chaos of the Naples train station (took the subway to get there as linea one was finally open, thank God)….

We caught a high speed, direct train to Salerno, first stop.   Managed to find the bus station without too much of a problem, and to our delight, the bus to Amalfi was waiting.   The delight was a bit bruised as we crammed onto the bus with a hundred other people and were left standing in the aisle for the next hour as the bus negotiated the almost unbelievable mountainous roads, twists, turns and jaw dropping climbs.  Not once was I afraid, these drivers are experts and several times we passed other buses going back to Naples, and I swear there was about 2 inches between the two buses.   Didn’t faze them a bit so it didn’t faze me either.   As we trundled along for the next hour or so, enough people left that I was able to sit for the last 5 km, which took us about 25 minutes.  At last, Amalfi appeared and we repeated the process for the next bus to Agerola, another hour or so but this time, blessedly sitting down.  Higher and higher we climbed, and the lush valleys below were all tiered and actively growing various types of produce.  The rain held off, blessedly. 

We kind of got off in the wrong spot in Agerola, which we realized when Google said it was a 25 minute walk and not a 3 minute one.   Called Magdalena and said, somewhat sheepishly… we’re at the Blue Moon bar, do you know where that is?   She laughed and said she would be right over to pick us up and sure enough, about 15 minutes later there she was.   We told her about our many travels and she looked at us and blinked and said… why didn’t you just take the bus direct from Naples?   Only 90 minutes!   Oh, we said.   Oh.   How about that.

By the time we tucked into our rooms and had our welcoming wine and goodies, we were laughing at ourselves.   No harm done, and the bus ride was one I will never forget.  (I can’t, since tomorrow we will be on the same bus, back-tracking to Salerno)!

First views of this lovely spot were marred by heavy clouds and mist over the mountains, but I will try to get some better pictures today.  The weather is still not on our side but everything is looking splendid from tomorrow on, right until we leave on Thursday.   I might even get a chance to wear my new hat again!

                                    A wonderful, hand-crafted menu, and really reasonable

                                   First view of Agerola, taken while waiting for our pick up

                                         Never stop dreaming.  Only those who dream can fly.

Moving on to Amalfi

 Yesterday was another good wander, and having visited the same piazza now three or four times, the way around the warren is become a little more clear.   We found a decent market (sadly, a day too late to buy things to cook).   Had an enjoyable time watching hundreds of children, who were in the piazza to meet some of their decathlon athletes and to be inspired by them.  Picked up more cheese and some roasted artichoke with olives dish that was purely amazing.  The weather held until after our mid afternoon break and then just as we were going to go to Sophia Loren’s corner for pizza, the skies opened.   No matter, I was stuffed full of luncheon goodies and so gratefully called it a night and managed to get a good, solid 8 hour sleep, which will put me in good stead for today’s adventures.  Fast train to Salerno, bus to Amalfi, bus to Agerola and to our next few nights as cliff dwellers.

                                                 Ciao, complesso Napoli.   

Making Friends with Naples

 Yesterday we walked the morning away, took a brief rest at home, and then continued to meander for a few more hours.   Somehow we wracked up 25G steps, and a great deal of them were going up staircases. The walk alongside the Napoli harbour is truly lovely - wide and for pedestrians only, which gave the mind and heart a rest from ducking Fiats and motorcycles.   This place makes you feel vibrantly alive and highly alert, sometimes that is a great feeling and sometimes the adrenalin rush that is needed to cross traffic or step carefully over broken roads leaves you a bit depleted.  The energy is frenetic and yet there is such beauty in the old buildings and in the plants/trees that must have floated over from Africa on the wind.

We found a wonderful market in the afternoon wander, and picked up pasta, cheese, stuffed eggplant and roasted peppers for our dinner.   And two ricotta cheesecake pieces!  It was a feast and one that would have been easy if we had a microwave (still don’t know why we don’t) or a functioning oven (simply does not light).   Dave created a water bath type of pan on one of the burners and we easily used the aluminum containers to warm it all up that way.   Easy.

I have also discovered the magnificent Napoli olive, expertly brined, at exactly the right ripeness.  The bag of about 20 that we bought didn’t last an hour, and we’re going back today for more.  Much more.

Streetlife around here is fascinating.   In the late afternoon, as I was giving my toes a much needed breather, I heard a loudspeaker moving through the neighbourhood.   I thought it was someone spouting propaganda but a peek over the veranda revealed the fruit & vegetable vendor.   He announces his presence, snaps open his panels and doors to display his wares, and then baskets start dropping from the higher apartments and verandas.   These obligingly get filled with the proper order and then it’s hauled back up to the window.   Payment’s in there somehow, maybe at the start.   

One of our major scores yesterday was to buy two rain ponchos for 3 euros.   Mine’s pink, bro’s is blue.  We hoped this might appease the rain Gods and that Murphy’s law would apply, but I’m afraid not.   Rain will return this afternoon and be a part of our travel day tomorrow, but at least this time we will be staying high and dry.

Tomorrow, we take the fast train to Salerno, and two buses further on to get to our next destination, Agerola, on the Amalfi.   Two nights in our own rooms in a hotel there, then two nights in a Salerno hotel, and then another long train trip to our final destination in Brindisi.  The days are getting short.

                                   We discovered the Basilica Reale Pontificia during our afternoon wanders

Today is another laundry day, because we’ll be hoteling it for the next four nights.   And right on schedule, the rain has made another appearance, but at least it is not heavy.   And the glittery Galleria Piazza Garibaldi is not a long walk from here, so that promises to be a pleasant and dry place to spend a few hours, and probably quite a few euros!