Haida Gwaii - Island of the People

Haida Gwaii greeted me with soft mist and the vibrant lushness of an ancient rainforest. It is now early morning, and the rain is tap dancing on the roof. No matter. There are no clocks or calendars for the next few days. The ferry trip to get here was an invitation to simply surrender to those things beyond one’s control. There was a long delay before boarding, caused by the need to ensure there was enough food - specifically French fries - to feed the straggly crowd. Two hours of waiting became three as we watched the brave drivers perilously reverse down an impossibly long and angled ramp onto the Northern Explorer. This included massive 18-wheel transport trucks, along with an assortment of recreational trailers and boats. The procedure was glacially slow as the crew methodically guided, encouraged, and then cheered on each driver until every vehicle was finally nestled into place. The crossing itself was calm, despite the daunting reputation of the wild Hecate Strait and the abundance of barf bags placed everywhere. Several hours and one nap later, the unloading followed with the same mystifying sense of (dis)order. I sat in the car, played Solitaire, and ate liquorice until it was finally our turn to roll ashore. Our Airbnb hosts texted as we drove onto the island. Would we possibly like to join them for some freshly caught Dungeness crab? Would we ever. After quickly unpacking and settling into our comfortable little cottage, we joined them on their rustic patio and swapped tales while noisily cracking our way through at least half a dozen large, sweet, perfectly cooked crabs, washed down by a few glasses of Prosecco. I'd say that's a darned fine welcome.