The Full Monty

 Montepulciano, Monticchiello, Monticiano, Montalcino.  Let those roll off your tongue a few times if you want to feel like a local.   But here’s a hint:  Don’t put Montepulciano in your Google maps when you really mean Monticiano.   Because you will do some extra miles and also owe the Google lady a big apology for your profanity.

But, what a day!  Perfect weather, quiet roads winding around the idyllic countryside, and all day to explore villages so charming they looked they had been Hollywood staged.   Most times, no cars are allowed in the city centre and so, once you have found a parking spot small enough for a wedge of cheese and managed to park the Fiat in it, you then hike directly up a long cobblestone hill, always heading for the tallest church spire you can see.  Because that will be the piazza, the happening spot where the sights and sounds will define the beauty of the day.  Every church is worth a visit and a few minutes of peace, and they are all unique in both history and style.  

Vineyards of vibrant Borollo grapes and fields of olive trees framed every road.

“The” quintessential Tuscan scene.

This pageant of ancient Heraldry was a complete mystery to us, but watching them was pure delight.  They wore perfect period costumes as they marched to the drums with complete seriousness.   Sound and sight provided a direct pathway to the Medieval period hundreds of years ago.  History, alive! 

Santa Catarina de Siena

 Met my better half yesterday, Saint Catherine of Sienna.   We’re about 680 years apart and there are a few other minor differences too, i.e., she was a saint and I am… not.   She wrote:  “If you really are what you should be, you will set all Italy aflame!”  And so, I stood in her shadow and promised to do my best.

Siena is an outstandingly beautiful town, filled with treasures around every corner.  It has joined Verona on my do-over list, and this despite a rather unfriendly greeting that involved high winds and driving rain for the first hour or so.   I had thrown my light jacket in at the last moment along with my umbrella, but I was drastically unprepared for the storm and I have never been so cold in my life.  The umbrella blew inside out so many times that I lost count and finally just kind of draped it over my head and held on tight as I followed Dave’s left foot up a never-ending hill and past the massive protective fortress walls that surround inner Siena.   Once there, we took refuge in the Duomo until the worst of the storm had passed.  The solemn beauty within defied adequate description. 

The inlaid carvings were exquisite to behold, and I could have spent several hours just admiring them alone.

We found a tiny restaurant and ordered a hot pasta lunch with charcuterie and a glass or two of deep red wine.  By the time we had enjoyed that, the sun was back in its rightful place and we continued our exploring of Siena, including the cathedral at Santa Catarina and some serendipitous wandering that lead to the top of the city walls and some breathtaking views of the town.

We didn’t quite hit our 20,000 steps today, but we came close.  Found a decent large market on the way home and loaded the larder, enough to last us a few days at least.  Then, a leisurely and lovely session of cooking as I worked on (under chef’s guidance) bruschetta while he created a simmering pasta sauce.  We dined after 9 pm, Italian style and I drifted off to bed packed full of pasta, garlic, tomato, basil.  Santa Catarina, I’m giving it my all!

The Heart of Tuscany

This morning I experienced the raptures of the overcrowded Italian bus line.  We were packed in like sardines and I employed a vice like grip to hang on to my backpack, my purse,  and my suitcase.  Using my 4th arm, I locked myself to the pole, since there were no seats to be had and a constant sea of humanity cheerfully flowed on and off at every stop.    It wasn’t a long bus ride though, only to the train station in Firenze, and like the  professionals that we are, we managed to purchase our tickets to Siena and be seated on board the train in less than 7 minutes.   Not bad at all!

As we left the delights of Florence behind us, the vista became quintessential Tuscan - long, rolling, gentle hills, Cyprus trees and tiered vineyards.   It is much more heavily forested than I imagined, and the trees are not yet showing a single sign of autumn, still being vibrantly green and lush.  Siena appeared about 90 minutes later,  and a helpful taxi delivered us to the Eurocar rental office and in pretty short order, we found ourselves meandering along the country roads in our Black Fiat Panda - a cute and versatile little car, perfect for the narrow, winding roads on the 35 km drive to Monticiano.  Google maps was unfailing and the scenery was breathtaking along the way.  Dave’s driving is masterful and confident and I think we are in for a wonderful week, having wheels under our feet!

Our home here is in a traditional Italian villa, and we were met by a smiling, non-English speaking Nona whose face became even brighter when she realized that Dave spoke pretty good Italian.   Lively discussions ensued while the official house tour was given.   My job was to nod enthusiastically and make effusive gestures of delight and gratitude, all genuine, because this home for the next week is a treasure beyond description.   Classic, clean, quiet, with a beautiful terrace and two full bedrooms, living room, kitchen.   The garden beneath us is full of roses and unique shrubbery and the view of the village of Monticiano from the terrace is breathtaking.  

After settling in, we motored back into the village to pick up provisions and enjoyed an Aperol in the quaint little plaza in front of the church while waiting for the Co-Op to open.   A tiny store for a tiny village so, after picking up a few items and paying dearly for same, we decided to save our major shop for our trip back into Siena on Saturday (which is actually today, since this post has taken a couple of days to write).  I slept deeply in this quiet countryside until the church bells woke me this morning, along with a few village dogs that were busy insulting each other.   Just now I managed a pretty good improv cup of coffee, my first in more than a week, and that will be joined by a slice of the amazing pear tart made by our hostess.  With the hustle and busyness of the travels to the great cities behind me, this peaceful, bucolic countryside is exactly what I longed for.