Ancient Rome

 Over 18,000 steps today, and the Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana, tucked in closely behind the Roman forum, was a peaceful oasis away from the thousands of people milling about the colosseum.  There, I met a monk who blessed me with the oil of St. Frances, a saint who worked tirelessly to save people’s lives during the Black Death.  It was a heartfelt and poignant moment for me.

Outside the Basilica, thousands of people stood patiently in line ups that seemed to extend for kilometers.   Hawkers sold cold water, parasols and funny wooden toys from Africa.  We did not go into the colosseum itself, but very much enjoyed our walk in and around the ancient lands and were especially fascinated by Trajan’s Market, approximately 200 AD, a massive site still under archeological examination but with intact frescos, tiled floors and walls.  

The Basilica St. Frances, circa 1200

The Colosseum

Perfectly preserved ancient ruins

The temperature gauge at the Farmacia indicated that it was 38 degrees C in the Piazza Venezia, the true centre of Rome.   Undaunted, we stuck to the shady side of the cobblestones and frequently topped up our water bottles.  When they ran dry, an Irish pub appeared by magic (divine intervention) and an ice-cold pint of Stella certainly helped.

We made our way past exquisite statues and crumbling but revered treasures of history, until the Spanish Steps appeared and we climbed to the top to attempt to get a good vista shot of the crowds below.   

I am still lusting after a true breathtaking view of Rome, and we did try the Palantine Hills, but to no avail.   Perhaps tonight, we will climb the Gianicolo, about a 3 km walk from here and purported to be quite beautiful.  Maybe if the temps lower to a friendlier level.

In the meantime, this blog is a day behind and today’s adventures were even richer than yesterday’s.   Dave and I have become quite well versed at catching Bus #8 and we move around comfortably through the various piazzas of Old Rome and the beautiful old cobblestone roads and districts.  Trastevere, where our apartment is, is one of the oldest and most traditional areas, filled with fabulous restaurants, shops and entertainment.   Rome explodes with life and laughter and love, so much so that the shoulder-to-shoulder walks with about a million other tourists is tolerable, even in this blistering heat.  Quite simply, it is unlike any other place on earth.

Santa Maria

 

Built on an ancient foundation, the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere had so much beauty that it was impossible to do it justice by camera.    The frescos are clearly intact and there were medieval mosaics on the arch and half-dome of the apse (built around 1130).  We had a leisurely wander around a mostly uncrowded church, and then continued exploring through the piazza and walked past many restaurants, surreptitiously peeking at the platters in front of the happy diners.  Trastevere is a popular spot for the locals and tourists alike and it buzzes with activity - street corner musicians, sidewalk artists and hawkers all help to make up a very cool and interesting passeggiata.  It’s still pretty hot here but once the sun goes down, the wandering is very pleasant indeed.

 

Day one, Roma

 

It is toasty hot in Rome, up to 33 degrees.  In our usual fashion, we set off mid-morning to catch a bus that was meant to take us to Vatican City, wandering along cobblestone streets and taking in the sights and sounds of this amazing cosmopolitan city.   A few twists and turns later, we found the appropriate bus stop but realized we had no tickets.   The search then switched to find a Tobaccaria, little stores scattered everywhere that sell metro, bus and train tickets.   Secured the tickets and decided that, rather than backtrack to the correct bus stop, we would just keep on walking to find the next available one.

Eight kilometers later….

Oh, look!  There’s the Basilica and St. Peter’s!   A miracle of the highest order has occurred!

Except.. the crowds and line ups were extensive, too daunting to contemplate a two hour wait in the hot sun.   So, a nice walk around the Piazza and then we started the slow trek back in reverse.   It was high noon and the sun helped us to decide to find a metro, which, after frequent consults with Google maps, appeared.   One stop later and a change to a different line, another half a km back to our beautiful little apartment and here we are, filling up on pizza fungoli and sitting gratefully under the AC.

Jet lag has arrived in full force and my body is in a state of chaotic confusion, not unlike the Italian tram system.   We will enjoy a quiet and early night and regroup for an earlier start tomorrow to avoid the worst of the heat.  Ciao for now, and happy TGIF to all.