Verona

The ancient and peaceful Basilica of San Zeno is one of the most stunning Romanesque churches in Italy. It was consecrated in the year 806 by the son of Charlemagne, destroyed during barbarian invasions and then rebuilt 150 years later. By the late 13th and 14th centuries it was again renovated and so on throughout the ages until it stands today as an ineffable triumph to man's hand. For 7 euros each we received passes to the four main churches of Verona and these passes are good for an entire year. Given the amount of exquisite art and history there and the peace and coolness within, it was an incredible price.

The exquisite courtyard and cloister, as seen through the branches of an olive tree. This is where the monks relaxed and washed at a central fountain, many centuries ago.

The frescoes were mesmerizing, as was the alter with a table supported by the sacrophagus of the bishops. The masterpiece of Italian Renaissance painting over the alter was done in the 1400s. I could not tear my eyes away from this beautiful art.

After an unhurried hour or so, we split a panini and had a glass of wine at the aptly named "Zen" cafe, in the piazza in the shade of the duomo. From there, a pleasant wander to the colosseum. Where for 10 euros each we climbed a bunch of ancient steps only to behold a 2023 stage setting and equipment ready for a head-banging concert this evening. The painful irony did not escape me. As adventures go, this one was a bust, only worthwhile for a picture taken from the top of the crumbling stairs to showcase beautiful Verona's Piazza Bra. It was a perfect day for a 16K wander, not too hot, and most of it was alongside the pretty Adige River, past castles, many cafes and bars filled with contented people taking in the moments as they sipped their capuccino. La dolce vita.

Lake Garda

Such a workout for the little Fiat today, a 5 hour trip all around the periphery of beautiful Lake Garda. We visited here last year when we stayed at Sirmione but this vista and approach was entirely different, and so beautiful. The east side is peppered with small villages, some with lovely old castles and bridges. We stopped and had a short walk around Malcesine and pulled over for lunch at Maderno. This was after surviving about 25 tunnels of terror. The entire west side of Garda is filled with tunnels and although they are beautifully constructed, they are also home to a staggering amount of vintage-aged biking enthusiasts who pedal through with sheer guts and determination, despite the approximately 6 inches of space that is left for them. The number of close calls we counted was gaspworthy, and I don't know how there aren't more fatalities reported. The good news is that we fixed the volume on Google maps and we were flawlessly guided through some pretty gnarly roads and traffic circles, of which there is one approximately every 600 meters in Italy. Round and round, keeping track of which exit to take and hoping you haven't lost count in your effort to spare the life of the frenzied pack of bikers, all dressed in glaring neon orange and green. There ought to be a saint protecting them, maybe St. Pelaton of The Autostrata. Anyway, a few shots, including a decadent late lunch of pizza with artichokes!

Cars, buses, maps

A productive day consisting of research into parking areas before picking up our little Fiat Panda. There is street parking in front of our building (but best of luck finding it) and one spot in a private parking area about 500 metres from us that we finally located and secured. Then, it was off on bus #11 to pick up the car. Only one minor mistake and that was getting off the bus too early, this because the transition from sunglasses to reading glasses proved too speedy for the map reader. Still, no problem, we walked the remaining bit and soon found Europcar rental and not long after that, were behind the wheel. Well, Dave was. My job was to try and Google map us back to parking and that would have been an easier job if there had been any volume on the phone. Instead, trying to wait for the signal to catch us in time to cue a quick turn proved somewhat exasperating. Google kept suggesting all sorts of creative twists and turns and it wasn't until we got home and were cursing that we realized it was still set on walk instead of drive. Oh. That would be why the suggestion to take a canal road turned out to be only for pedestrians. A stop for a panini and a beer and the experience of my first ever stand-up toilet, which I viewed with somewhat disbelief and horror but, in for a penny, desperation won over trepidation. Another first. Here is the view from our sweet balcony, very close to a fast flowing canal of blue-grey water. A quiet afternoon.